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There are details that should not be overlooked as graphics are being prepared for installation, and the preparation has to begin before the beginning. The first rule of inkjet-printed media is to allow the ink to dry and set for a minimum of 24 hours. Then, it's safe to apply to whatever substrate you're using. This month, we'll stick to flat, relatively smooth surfaces, like sign boards and barricades, rather than irregular ones with compound curves, or other surfaces like glass, carpets, and concrete.

With just about any flat material – whether plastic, PVC, aluminum, or MDO – the surface should be as clean as possible. Don’t use soap, Windex, or any ammonia-based cleaners as they leave a residue that will affect the vinyl's adhesion.

Photo courtesy LAgraphico.

The best bet is either rubbing alcohol or other cleaners that evaporate quickly, such as those made by Rapid Tac, which are designed specifically for vinyl application.

Use cheap paper towels to wipe down the substrate as they're less likely than rags, towels, or more expensive paper towels to leave anything behind.

Installation professional Keith Bernard of Road Signs in Sarasota, Fla., says to avoid alcohol on freshly painted surfaces.

“A lot of interior barricades you find at malls are drywall with a fresh coat of primer, and if you use alcohol you run the risk of smearing the paint, which will cause adhesion problems with the material you’re installing,” he says.

Some people will scuff the substrate, particularly a PVC-based material like Sintra, to create more surface area for the adhesive to stick to, but this can create ridges and pockets in the material that might actually defeat the purpose.

Foam boards need less preparation, but if you're cutting them to a different size to fit the application, make sure there's no dust on the board before you apply the graphic. If you have a laminator, use it to apply the graphic to the material, even if you’re not laminating the print. It's a relatively quick and easy way to apply the vinyl to the substrate.

However, if you usually run rigid materials on one side of the laminator each time, the rollers will tend to wear down on that side, causing poor adhesion and de-lamination. One solution is to mix it up, and run materials through each side of the laminator and in the middle.

Photo courtesy LAgraphico.

To check your laminator, set the nip to zero, and if there's any daylight between the rollers it means you're getting wear spots, or the rollers are out of alignment. Either way, it’s a good idea to regularly check this.

Once you've applied the graphic to the board, whether you're using a laminator or not, it's important to let the adhesive set for at least two hours, and ideally 24 hours, before you trim. This is especially important if you're using a mechanical cutting tool, like a CNC router. If you're not using a router, make sure to use a sharp blade on a hard surface, such as tempered glass. This will help eliminate any edge lift problems.

If you're installing in the field, the same cleaning regimen applies, as well as making sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations regarding the best temperature range for installation. But out here you often have to deal with removing the previous graphics, such as you would with an existing sign board. In this case, bring a heat gun or a propane torch. If the board is small enough (say 4x8 at most), the heat gun should be sufficient, but a bigger flame is needed to remove larger graphics.

And, have tweezers and a pin or needle handy. The tweezers will help with small, stubborn pieces of vinyl, particularly if the previous graphics include cut vinyl lettering. The pin is for getting rid of any bubbles you might have as you apply the new graphic.

Material Selection

After preparing the surface and when you install the graphic, it's best to give yourself an extra inch or so of material to wrap around the edges, because you don't want to stretch the vinyl. Intermediate, calendered vinyls have a lot more "memory" and tend to shrink more than higher-grade, cast vinyls.

All calendered vinyls will shrink over time, but are good for short term graphics. As the material shrinks, it will pull back from the edges of the substrate. To avoid this, overprint the graphic and wrap the vinyl around the back of the substrate. You should allow for at least a two-inch wrap on the back. Although this method is not necessary for long-term cast vinyl applications, it’s a good idea to use if the edges are exposed to prying fingers.

Following are some general recommendations based on the board or barricade application. Obviously, other factors will come into play that may require something different, so give your trained LexJet account specialist a call at 800-453-9538 for help finding the right combination…

Mall Barricades and Barriers: Since this application is usually short-term (under six months), use BUSmark® 5800 since it will stick well to the surface but is also easily removed. “The reality when you’re dealing with barricades is that you need to pick a removable, intermediate vinyl so the customer can re-use the barricades,” says Bernard. “If you use a cast vinyl, you’re probably going overboard. And, if you use an economy vinyl with a permanent adhesive, it will take longer to remove the graphics than it’s worth to try and save the substrate.”

Dasher and Sports Arena Boards: Again, this is usually a short-term application, so BUSmark® 5800 is the best bet. If the boards are being switched out after every game with new ads you don’t need to laminate. For more permanent applications, use FLEXmark® BILBRD™ BWV or LexJet 55 Intermediate Vinyl with a textured, rigid laminate like LexJet 5 Mil T-Flex.

Outdoor Barricades: Use BUSmark® 5800 laminated with JETbond® 44138 for abrasion resistance for short-term, removable applications, and FLEXmark® BILBRD™ BWV for long-term applications as it provides up to two years of exterior life.

Sign Boards: For permanent identification signs outdoors, use a cast vinyl like 3M Controltac since it will not tend to shrink and curl over long periods of time like an intermediate vinyl. For less permanent, economical signs, LexJet 55 laminated with 3 Mil GraphicShield UV Satin, or FLEXmark® BILBRD™ BWV are good choices. If you’re using a printer with aqueous inks, LexJet TOUGHcoat AquaVinyl PSA laminated with 3.2 Mil GraphicsGuard UV Luster w/ PreLume or 3.2 Mil GraphicsGuard UV Matte w/ PreLume and edge sealed will work well for a few years outdoors. For indoor applications with aqueous inks, go with LexJet PolyGloss PSA or LexJet TOUGHcoat Water-Resistant Polypropylene.

Sometimes, it's just easier and more economical to have a professional installer do it for you, particularly for larger graphics. If someone who specializes in vinyl installation can do it two to four times faster, you might better off using the time and effort you'd spend installing doing what you do best.

Installation may be the most important component since it’s what the customer and the public ultimately see. A professional installer can make it look better and help avoid wasting material in the process.